washing_machine

Washing Machine Displaying error code E1 or F21

An E1 or F21 error code on your washing machine means the machine is having trouble draining water within the expected time. This is most often caused by a clogged drain pump filter, a kinked or blocked drain hose, or a failing drain pump. This guide will walk you through inspecting and clearing each of these components so your machine drains properly again.

1. 1

   Unplug the Washing Machine

   Before doing anything else, reach behind the washing machine and unplug it from the wall outlet. Do not skip this step. Working on an appliance that is still connected to power — even if it is turned off — creates a serious risk of electric shock. If the machine is hardwired or you cannot safely reach the plug, turn off the dedicated circuit breaker for the laundry area instead.

   warning

   Never work on the inside of an appliance while it is connected to power. Electric shock can cause serious injury or death.

2. 2

   Prepare the Area for Water Spillage

   The drum likely still holds standing water, which will spill out when you open the pump filter or disconnect the drain hose. Lay old towels on the floor around the machine. Have a shallow pan or baking dish ready — something that can slide under the machine — to catch water. Keep a bucket nearby as well. Taking a few minutes to prepare now will save a big cleanup later.

   tip

   A cookie sheet with raised edges works great as a shallow catch tray that slides easily under the front of the machine.

3. 3

   Locate and Open the Drain Pump Filter

   On most front-load washers, the drain pump filter is behind a small access panel on the lower front of the machine. Pry off or unsnap this panel using a flathead screwdriver or your fingers. You will see a short rubber drain hose (the emergency drain hose) and a round filter cap. Pull the rubber hose out, remove its end cap, and let the water drain slowly into your pan. Once the water is drained, turn the filter cap counterclockwise to remove it completely. On top-load machines, the filter may be located inside the drum rim or near the agitator — check your owner's manual if you cannot find it.

   warning

   The water in the drum may be hot if the machine stopped mid-cycle during a warm or hot wash. Let it cool before draining.

   tip

   Drain the emergency hose slowly — if you let it all gush at once, it will overflow your pan.

4. 4

   Clean the Drain Pump Filter

   Pull the filter out completely and inspect it. It will likely be clogged with lint, coins, hair ties, small socks, or other debris. Remove all foreign objects by hand. Rinse the filter under warm running water in a sink, using an old toothbrush to scrub away any built-up slime or lint. Also shine a flashlight into the filter housing in the machine and remove any debris sitting inside it. Check that the small impeller (the plastic fan-like piece) inside the housing spins freely — if it is stuck or broken, the pump may need to be replaced.

   tip

   Coins and bra underwire are the most common culprits. Check pockets before every wash to avoid repeat clogs.

   warning

   Watch for sharp edges from broken underwire or metal objects inside the filter housing.

5. 5

   Reinstall the Filter and Check for Leaks

   Once the filter is clean, screw it back into the housing by turning it clockwise until it is firmly seated and snug — do not overtighten, but make sure it is not loose. Reinsert the emergency drain hose and replace its end cap. Close the access panel. Temporarily plug the machine back in and run a short rinse and spin cycle to test if water drains properly and to check for leaks around the filter. If there are no leaks and the error is gone, the repair is complete. If the error returns, continue to the next steps.

   warning

   If you see any water leaking from the filter area during the test cycle, unplug the machine immediately and re-seat the filter more carefully.

6. 6

   Inspect the Drain Hose

   Unplug the machine again. Pull the machine away from the wall so you can see the drain hose running from the back of the washer to the standpipe or utility sink. Check the entire length of the hose for kinks, sharp bends, or pinches — straighten any you find. Disconnect the hose from the standpipe or sink and lower it into a bucket to see if water flows freely through it. If the flow seems weak, flush water through the hose from a garden hose or faucet. Also make sure the drain hose is not inserted more than 4.5 inches into the standpipe, which can create a siphon effect that prevents proper draining.

   tip

   The ideal drain hose height is between 39 and 96 inches from the floor, as specified in most manufacturer guidelines. Too low and water siphons back; too high and the pump has to work too hard.

   warning

   Always unplug the machine before pulling it away from the wall to avoid straining the power cord or tipping the unit.

7. 7

   Check the Lid Switch or Door Latch

   If the machine still shows the error, the problem may be that the washer does not think the door or lid is properly closed, which prevents the drain cycle from running. For front-loaders, inspect the door latch and strike on the door frame — look for cracks, breaks, or misalignment. For top-loaders, find the lid switch (usually a small plastic tab that gets pressed when the lid closes) and inspect it for damage. Close the lid or door firmly and listen for a click. If the latch feels loose or does not click, the latch assembly may need to be replaced.

   tip

   You can test a top-loader lid switch with a multimeter set to continuity mode — a working switch will beep when the lid is closed.

8. 8

   Test the Drain Pump

   If the filter and hose are clear but the machine still will not drain, the drain pump itself may be faulty. Unplug the machine and access the pump — on most front-loaders it is accessible after removing the lower front panel, and on top-loaders it is typically accessed by tilting the machine back or removing the cabinet. Disconnect the wiring harness from the pump and use a multimeter set to resistance (ohms) mode to test the pump motor terminals. A healthy pump motor typically reads between 5 and 10 ohms — a reading of zero (short circuit) or infinite resistance (open circuit) means the pump has failed and needs to be replaced. Also check that the wire harness connector is fully seated and free of corrosion.

   warning

   Make absolutely sure the machine is unplugged before accessing internal components or touching any wiring.

   tip

   Take a photo of the wiring connections before you disconnect anything so you can easily reconnect them correctly.

9. 9

   Replace the Drain Pump if Needed

   If the pump tests as faulty, order a replacement pump that matches your washer's make, model, and serial number — this information is on a label inside the door frame or on the back of the machine. To replace the pump, clamp off the hoses connected to it to reduce spillage, then loosen the hose clamps and pull the hoses free. Unscrew or unclip the pump from its mounting bracket. Install the new pump in reverse order: mount it to the bracket, reconnect the hoses, tighten the clamps, and plug in the wiring harness. Run a test cycle to confirm the error is resolved.

   part

   Use your appliance's full model number (found on the door frame label) to search for the correct replacement drain pump.

   warning

   Have towels and a pan ready when removing hoses — residual water will spill even after draining the filter.

10. 10

    Run a Full Test Cycle and Monitor

    Once repairs are complete, plug the machine back in and run a complete wash cycle with a small load of laundry. Stay nearby and watch during the drain and spin portions of the cycle. Confirm the error code does not reappear, the machine drains fully, and there are no unusual noises like grinding or humming from the pump area. If the machine completes the cycle without errors, the repair is successful. If the error code returns, there may be a control board issue and it is recommended to contact a certified appliance technician for further diagnosis.

    tip

    Going forward, clean the drain pump filter every 1 to 3 months to prevent future clogs and error codes.