Washing Machine Displaying error code E1 or F21
An E1 or F21 error code on your washing machine means the machine is having trouble draining water within the expected time. This is most often caused by a clogged drain pump filter, a kinked or blocked drain hose, or a failing drain pump. This guide will walk you through inspecting and clearing each of these components so your machine drains properly again.
Step 1: Unplug the Washing Machine
Before doing anything else, reach behind the washing machine and unplug it from the wall outlet. Do not skip this step. Working on an appliance that is still connected to power — even if it is turned off — creates a serious risk of electric shock. If the machine is hardwired or you cannot safely reach the plug, turn off the dedicated circuit breaker for the laundry area instead.
Step 2: Prepare the Area for Water Spillage
The drum likely still holds standing water, which will spill out when you open the pump filter or disconnect the drain hose. Lay old towels on the floor around the machine. Have a shallow pan or baking dish ready — something that can slide under the machine — to catch water. Keep a bucket nearby as well. Taking a few minutes to prepare now will save a big cleanup later.
Step 3: Locate and Open the Drain Pump Filter
On most front-load washers, the drain pump filter is behind a small access panel on the lower front of the machine. Pry off or unsnap this panel using a flathead screwdriver or your fingers. You will see a short rubber drain hose (the emergency drain hose) and a round filter cap. Pull the rubber hose out, remove its end cap, and let the water drain slowly into your pan. Once the water is drained, turn the filter cap counterclockwise to remove it completely. On top-load machines, the filter may be located inside the drum rim or near the agitator — check your owner's manual if you cannot find it.
Step 4: Clean the Drain Pump Filter
Pull the filter out completely and inspect it. It will likely be clogged with lint, coins, hair ties, small socks, or other debris. Remove all foreign objects by hand. Rinse the filter under warm running water in a sink, using an old toothbrush to scrub away any built-up slime or lint. Also shine a flashlight into the filter housing in the machine and remove any debris sitting inside it. Check that the small impeller (the plastic fan-like piece) inside the housing spins freely — if it is stuck or broken, the pump may need to be replaced.
Step 5: Reinstall the Filter and Check for Leaks
Once the filter is clean, screw it back into the housing by turning it clockwise until it is firmly seated and snug — do not overtighten, but make sure it is not loose. Reinsert the emergency drain hose and replace its end cap. Close the access panel. Temporarily plug the machine back in and run a short rinse and spin cycle to test if water drains properly and to check for leaks around the filter. If there are no leaks and the error is gone, the repair is complete. If the error returns, continue to the next steps.
Step 6: Inspect the Drain Hose
Unplug the machine again. Pull the machine away from the wall so you can see the drain hose running from the back of the washer to the standpipe or utility sink. Check the entire length of the hose for kinks, sharp bends, or pinches — straighten any you find. Disconnect the hose from the standpipe or sink and lower it into a bucket to see if water flows freely through it. If the flow seems weak, flush water through the hose from a garden hose or faucet. Also make sure the drain hose is not inserted more than 4.5 inches into the standpipe, which can create a siphon effect that prevents proper draining.
Step 7: Check the Lid Switch or Door Latch
If the machine still shows the error, the problem may be that the washer does not think the door or lid is properly closed, which prevents the drain cycle from running. For front-loaders, inspect the door latch and strike on the door frame — look for cracks, breaks, or misalignment. For top-loaders, find the lid switch (usually a small plastic tab that gets pressed when the lid closes) and inspect it for damage. Close the lid or door firmly and listen for a click. If the latch feels loose or does not click, the latch assembly may need to be replaced.
Step 8: Test the Drain Pump
If the filter and hose are clear but the machine still will not drain, the drain pump itself may be faulty. Unplug the machine and access the pump — on most front-loaders it is accessible after removing the lower front panel, and on top-loaders it is typically accessed by tilting the machine back or removing the cabinet. Disconnect the wiring harness from the pump and use a multimeter set to resistance (ohms) mode to test the pump motor terminals. A healthy pump motor typically reads between 5 and 10 ohms — a reading of zero (short circuit) or infinite resistance (open circuit) means the pump has failed and needs to be replaced. Also check that the wire harness connector is fully seated and free of corrosion.
Step 9: Replace the Drain Pump if Needed
If the pump tests as faulty, order a replacement pump that matches your washer's make, model, and serial number — this information is on a label inside the door frame or on the back of the machine. To replace the pump, clamp off the hoses connected to it to reduce spillage, then loosen the hose clamps and pull the hoses free. Unscrew or unclip the pump from its mounting bracket. Install the new pump in reverse order: mount it to the bracket, reconnect the hoses, tighten the clamps, and plug in the wiring harness. Run a test cycle to confirm the error is resolved.
Step 10: Run a Full Test Cycle and Monitor
Once repairs are complete, plug the machine back in and run a complete wash cycle with a small load of laundry. Stay nearby and watch during the drain and spin portions of the cycle. Confirm the error code does not reappear, the machine drains fully, and there are no unusual noises like grinding or humming from the pump area. If the machine completes the cycle without errors, the repair is successful. If the error code returns, there may be a control board issue and it is recommended to contact a certified appliance technician for further diagnosis.
Pro Tips
- Always check pockets for coins, keys, and small items before loading laundry — these are the number one cause of drain pump clogs.
- Clean the drain pump filter every 1 to 3 months as part of regular washer maintenance.
- Keep the area around the drain standpipe clear so you can quickly spot any backup or overflow.
- If you have a front-loader, run a monthly hot water cleaning cycle with washer cleaner to prevent soap scum buildup that can restrict drainage.
- Write down your washer's model and serial number and keep it somewhere handy so you can quickly find the right parts if needed in the future.
- If your machine repeatedly throws this error despite cleaning the filter, consider whether the machine is overloaded — too much laundry can overwhelm the drain pump.
Safety
- Always unplug the washing machine or turn off its circuit breaker before opening any panels or touching internal components.
- Water and electricity are a dangerous combination — never work on a wet machine that is still plugged in.
- Hot water from a mid-cycle stop can cause burns — allow the water to cool before draining.
- When moving the washing machine, get help — these appliances are very heavy and can cause back injuries or tip over.
- Watch for sharp metal objects like underwire, staples, or broken parts inside the pump filter housing.
- If you are not comfortable testing electrical components with a multimeter, stop and call a professional technician rather than risk injury or further damage.